After Ericeira’s charm and variety, Peniche felt like a different beast.
This town isn’t just another surf stop—it’s home to Supertubos, one of the heaviest beach breaks in Europe. The kind of wave that humbles you, whether you like it or not.
First Impressions: Salt, Wind, and No-Nonsense Vibes
Peniche isn’t a polished surf town. It’s raw, rugged, built around the sea.
Fishing boats bob in the harbor. The scent of sardines grilling mixes with the Atlantic air. The wind—always the wind—whips through the narrow streets, rattling window shutters and forcing you to layer up, even on a sunny day.
It felt like the kind of place where you either adapt, or you don’t last long.
I checked into a hostel near the beach, run by João, a local surfer with an easy smile and a deep knowledge of every break in the area.
“Supertubos is working today,” he told me, barely containing his grin. “But be careful. It’s not for everyone.”
I was about to find out exactly what he meant.
Supertubos: A Welcome Beating
Standing on the beach, I watched perfect, hollow barrels detonate on the sand.
It was beautiful. It was terrifying.
This wasn’t the rolling pointbreak of Ribeira d’Ilhas. This was a freight train, moving fast and breaking hard.
Paddling out felt like stepping into an arena. The current was relentless, and the locals knew exactly where to sit.
My first wave? Didn’t go well.
Late drop. Board slipped out. The lip hit me like a truck. I got dragged, flipped, chewed up, and spat out onto the shore like a piece of driftwood.
As I gasped for air, wiping salt from my eyes, a surfer paddling past me laughed.
“Welcome to Supertubos!”
Fair enough.
Finding My Rhythm
I sat on the beach, watching. Reading the lineup.
The locals had a method. Positioning. Timing. Knowing when to commit and when to hold back.
Next session, I took my time.
A set rolled through. First wave—too steep. Second wave—looked better.
Paddle, paddle. Commit.
Dropped in. Rail engaged. Suddenly, I was inside a barrel.
It lasted maybe two seconds. Then the wave swallowed me whole.
But those two seconds? Electric.
That was enough to keep me coming back.
Baleal: A Breather From the Chaos
Not every day was a Supertubos day.
On the heavier days, Baleal was the perfect escape. Softer waves, less intensity, a place to reset.
Surfing here felt relaxed. It wasn’t about proving anything. It was just fun.
One afternoon, after a long session, I wandered into a beach café and ordered a caldeirada—a Portuguese fish stew that was exactly what my tired body needed.
The owner, an old fisherman, gave me a nod as I ate. “Good waves today?” he asked in Portuguese.
I didn’t know how to say, “I got wrecked at Supertubos but survived,” so I just grinned and said, “Muito bom.”
Lessons Learned
Peniche taught me patience.
It’s not the kind of place where you show up and dominate. You have to respect the lineup. Learn the rhythm. Earn your waves.
By my last day, I wasn’t pulling into massive barrels. But I was picking better waves. Paddling smarter. Feeling more in sync with the break.
And in surfing, that’s everything.
Next Stop: The Algarve
Warmer water. Bigger cliffs. A whole different side of Portugal.
I’m ready for it.