After the charm and variety of Ericeira, Peniche felt like the next logical step. Known as one of Portugal’s premier surf towns, it’s home to Supertubos—a wave that has earned its name thanks to its fast, barreling perfection. This break hosts the World Surf League’s MEO Rip Curl Pro, so you can imagine my mix of excitement and nerves as I drove into town.
Peniche has a rugged, no-frills vibe that I immediately liked. The town juts out into the Atlantic, surrounded by beaches on almost every side. It’s a working fishing town at heart, and you can feel that history in the weathered boats bobbing in the harbor and the smell of fresh seafood wafting through the streets. But there’s also an energy here—a steady stream of surfers from all over the world arriving with boards strapped to their cars and dreams of riding the famous Supertubos.
I checked into a modest hostel near the beach, run by a local surfer named João. He greeted me like an old friend, immediately pulling out a map and pointing out the best spots based on the day’s conditions. “Supertubos is pumping today,” he said, his grin wide. “But be careful—it’s not for everyone.”
I knew what he meant as soon as I got to the beach. Supertubos was alive, its waves breaking with a ferocity I hadn’t seen since my time in California. The sets were fast, heavy, and hollow, creating barrels that looked as beautiful as they did intimidating. The crowd on the beach was just as intense—locals, tourists, photographers, and even a few pros warming up for an upcoming competition.
Paddling out felt like entering a battlefield. The current was strong, and every wave seemed to demand absolute precision. My first attempt at catching a wave ended with me being thrown head over heels, dragged underwater, and deposited unceremoniously on the shore. As I stumbled back to my feet, coughing up seawater, a local surfer paddling out next to me shouted, “Welcome to Supertubos!”
Despite the rough start, I wasn’t ready to give up. I studied the lineup, watched how the more experienced surfers positioned themselves, and waited for my moment. When I finally caught a wave, it was everything I’d hoped for and more. The drop was steep, the speed exhilarating, and for a few fleeting seconds, I was inside the barrel, surrounded by walls of water. It wasn’t a perfect ride—I wiped out before I could make it out of the tube—but it left me buzzing.
The next few days in Peniche were a mix of triumphs and lessons. I spent hours at Supertubos, improving with each session but also gaining a new respect for the wave’s power. On days when Supertubos was too heavy, I explored some of the town’s other spots. Baleal, just a short drive away, offered gentler waves and a more relaxed vibe, perfect for recovering after the intensity of Supertubos.
Outside of the water, Peniche had plenty to keep me busy. The town’s seafood was some of the best I’d ever had—plates of grilled sardines, octopus salads, and bowls of caldeirada, a hearty fish stew that warmed me up after chilly surf sessions. One evening, I joined João and a group of other surfers for dinner at a local spot. The conversation flowed easily, jumping between surf stories, travel tips, and debates about the best waves in Portugal.
By the end of my time in Peniche, I felt a deep sense of accomplishment. Supertubos had challenged me in ways I hadn’t expected, pushing me to be more patient, more observant, and more humble. It’s the kind of wave that doesn’t just test your skills—it tests your character.
As I packed up to head further south, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of gratitude. Peniche had been everything I’d hoped for—a place where the waves are as demanding as they are rewarding, and where the community welcomes you with open arms (as long as you respect the ocean and the lineup).
Next stop: the Algarve. With its warmer waters and stunning cliffs, it promises a completely different side of Portugal.