After the raw beauty and unpredictability of Galicia, I wasn’t sure what to expect from Portugal. The southern neighbor is often hailed as one of Europe’s surfing meccas, with its variety of breaks and consistent swells. My first destination was Ericeira, a town that’s become a pilgrimage site for surfers from around the globe. It’s home to Europe’s only World Surfing Reserve, which, to be honest, made me both excited and a little intimidated.
The drive down was long but stunning. As I crossed into Portugal, the landscape shifted from Galicia’s green hills to a mix of rolling plains and rugged coastline. By the time I rolled into Ericeira, the late afternoon sun had turned the town into a postcard. Whitewashed buildings with blue trim hugged the cliffs, and narrow streets wound their way toward the ocean. The air was thick with the smell of salt and grilled fish.
I checked into a small guesthouse run by an older Portuguese couple who immediately offered me a plate of freshly baked pastries called pastéis de nata. “For energy,” the wife said with a wink. Their warmth reminded me of my parents back in Gandia, and for a moment, I felt a pang of homesickness. But as soon as I saw the ocean, that feeling faded.
Ericeira’s main draw is its variety. Within a 10-minute drive, you can find everything from beginner-friendly beach breaks to heavy reef waves that’ll make even seasoned surfers think twice. My first stop was Ribeira d’Ilhas, one of the area’s most famous breaks. It’s a long, peeling right-hand wave that’s known for its consistency. When I arrived, the parking lot was buzzing with energy—surfers waxing their boards, vans blasting music, and a mix of Portuguese and foreign accents blending together.
The first paddle out was humbling. The wave itself was beautiful—clean, powerful, and surprisingly forgiving—but the lineup was packed. I’d been warned that Ericeira could get crowded, and they weren’t kidding. Still, the vibe was friendly. A local surfer even gave me a quick tip about positioning that helped me catch one of the best waves of the day.
Riding that wave felt incredible. It wasn’t the biggest or the fastest, but it had a rhythm to it. The kind where you can set your line, carve a few turns, and feel like you’re exactly where you’re supposed to be. When I finally paddled back out, I couldn’t stop smiling.
Over the next few days, I explored more of what Ericeira had to offer. Coxos was a standout—one of the most technical waves I’ve surfed in a long time. It’s a heavy right-hand reef break that demands respect. On my first attempt, I mistimed my takeoff and got absolutely hammered. But after watching the locals and figuring out the rhythm, I managed to snag a wave that left me buzzing for hours.
When I wasn’t surfing, I was soaking up the town’s laid-back vibe. Ericeira is the kind of place where you can walk barefoot from the beach to a cafe, order a plate of bacalhau (salt cod), and strike up a conversation with a stranger who feels like a friend by the time your coffee arrives. I met a group of backpackers at a local bar one evening, and we ended up swapping travel stories until late into the night.
Of course, it wasn’t all perfect. Surfing in a place as popular as Ericeira comes with challenges. The crowds can be frustrating, especially when you’re competing for waves with surfers who’ve been here for years. And while the town has a lot of charm, it’s also become a bit of a hotspot for tourists, which sometimes makes it feel more like a surf theme park than a real community.
Still, Ericeira left its mark on me. The waves, the people, the sheer energy of the place—it’s easy to see why surfers from all over the world keep coming back. As I packed up my van to head further south, I felt a mix of excitement and gratitude. I’d only scratched the surface of Portugal’s coast, and there was so much more to see.
Next stop: Peniche.
With its world-famous Supertubos break, it promises to be another adventure entirely.